Previous | Next . No doubt, this is for good reason, as any one who stares up at it can tell from the relative size of the talus slope to the size of the cliff. If you decide to top out (which is recommended for climbs like Moby Grape and Whitney Gilman), there are two main ways to descend. Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Grafton County: Cannon Cliff: Big wall section- Central sect: Moby Grape. If you top out Whitney Gilman, continue to follow the ridge back and up toward the summit and you’ll find an obvious trail that leads first back, then left, then down an endless slope eventually arriving at the carriage road underneath the cliff. This is not to say that the routes are bad, however. From the top of the main cliff section (Moby Grape), head climber’s right through the bushy escarpment for about 15 minutes until you eventually catch site of the old helicopter landing pad. Lee Hansche chooses the left option on the Finger of Fate pitch (5.7), chimneying up until he can clasp the top of the Finger. Moby Grape, Cannon Cliff, NH. And with numerous sections featuring vertical jam cracks and granite slabs, the climbing was largely alien to a Gunks climber like me. Available any day of the week June 1st-October 31st. 20 Years Later on Cannon Cliff. Nous vous proposons donc de gravir ce colosse deux fois plutôt qu’une par deux itin Immobilized for what felt like hours—though it was probably more like 10 minutes—I finally freed myself by sucking in my belly and shoving the cams back over. Now factor in the biting black flies and weather that sneaks up on you from behind the cliff, and you can see why Rob, Iain, and I were crashed next to Profile Lake, just a little too close to I-93. Prochain départ Contactez-nous; Groupe 2 participants; Durée 3 jours; Niveau Intermédiaire / avancé; Hébergement 2 nuits en camping; Prix 675 $ *Peut varier en fonction du taux de change US; Lorsque vous apercevrez cette montagne, le sentiment d’aventure et de dépassement vous envahira. Ben Kessel was climbing Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff when the rockfall took place gripped September 25, 2020 A man died in a rock climbing accident last Sunday in New Hampshire after a large rock cut his rope. It is a classic 5.8 wall climb, comparable to (but much longer than) Nutcracker in Yosemite or to Guide's Wall in the Tetons. You get to negotiate a number of wild features, the most famous of which is the “Finger of Fate” — a sort of giant, detached shark’s fin of granite perched halfway up the face. I then slithered onto the top of the fin, having experienced the magic of the Finger. As a newer climber, I stood at high alert, willing the rope to move. Cannon is a very traditional climbing area, and requires both experience and good route-finding skills. They were one of the few groups of which all members were lead vocalists. Though the original first pitch climbed the left corner of the buttress, Reppy's … Though it’s a good pitch, it’s most often skipped for Reppy’s Crack (5.8)—a 120-foot hand-crack splitter established in 1965—a temptation my partner Alex and I could not resist on our ascent in 2015. Finally, I yelled up, “Are you OK?” to which I got a response of, “Not really—I’m stuck.” Alex had been sucked into Kurt’s Corner, an alternative finish that notoriously stays wet. Spring tends to be wet and seepy with some falling ice and sometimes rock to watch out for. A Somerville man was killed over the weekend in a White Mountains climbing accident when a refrigerator-sized rock severed his rope, sending … Ben Kessel, 34, of Sommerville, Mass., was climbing Moby … Powered by WP – Designed with the Customizr theme. Moby Grape Area. If you decide to top out (which is recommended for climbs like Moby Grape and Whitney Gilman), there are two main ways to descend. All Locations > New Hampshire > Cannon Cliff > 4. Even the most popular routes have unavoidable runouts and sections where falls will have serious consequences. Le groupe réalise un rock inspiré du folk, du blues, de la country et du jazz Biographie. Unable to resist, Cote climbed up to the Sickle, and then swung back left to rejoin Psyche Dike. However, Moby Grape, established in 1972 by Joe Cote and Roger Martin, is one of the best moderate trad climbs in the Northeast. Although I’d never been in a squeeze chimney, I chose the former—and got stuck when the large cams swung across my body. It’s located in New Hampshire’s Franconia Notch State Park on the 1,000-foot-high Cannon Cliff, which is known for shedding rock. The low angle makes for especially dangerous terrain in the event of a fall. The day started from my friends cottage on lake winnipasakie at 4 am. You’ll have to stay at a campground around here for a shower, or go swimming at the nearby Profile and Echo lakes. Cannon Cliff. New Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Moby Grape At 11:30 a.m. on September 15, Liam Kirkpatrick (20) and his partner were climbing Moby Grape (8 pitches, 5.8 PG-13) on Cannon Cliff. May 31, 2016 | In MyAdventures, New Hampshire, Upper-Right, White Mountains | By David Lottmann. If you brought your mountain bike, the best riding in the Northeast can be found about an hour north at Kingdom Trails. The original first pitch consists of an awkward layback, followed by a traverse across the face to finish with some finger and hand crack. Considering how temperamental the geology here is, it’s best not to wait to check out this Northeast gem, because it might be gone tomorrow. Classics include: The Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7), Moby Grape (5.8), Union Jack (5.9), Duet (5.7), Vertigo (5.9+), VMC DD (5.10+), Location: Cannon Cliff, Franconia, NH Dates. I mistakenly took us up the Moby Grape approach trail forgetting that the Lakeview trail requires taking a hard right on the Pemi Trail after crossing the bridge. The former home of the now-extinct Old Man of the Mountain, the proud symbol of the Granite State, Cannon Cliff still boasts an impressive profile that is hard not to gawk at while driving by on Route 93 underneath. Franconia: On Sunday, September 20, 2020 just before 4:00 PM NH Fish and Game Conservation Officers were alerted to a climbing accident on Cannon Cliff in Franconia Notch State Park. As the story goes, in 1971, Joe Cote first scoped out Moby Grape’s middle pitches when he and Ben Read traversed off from the neighboring Psyche Dike, as a party above them was dislodging lethal amounts of rock (seeing a pattern?). The tallest sections reach up to 1000 feet in height, and offer arguably the best big adventures in this part of the country. We both held our breath as Alex tiptoed back down to a small ledge to regain the standard route, which we finished without a hitch. A full trad rack with doubles of most sizes and a set of stoppers is required for most climbs, and for some routes (e.g., Vertigo, VMC Direct Direct) double ropes will serve you well. Max leading Reppys, the alternative first pitch of Moby Grape on Cannon Mountain, July 22, 2012. The Conn buttress borders the right side of the big wall section and Moby Grape climbs up the center of this buttress. The fifth pitch of Moby Grape is not difficult but is dificult to protect. The group continues to perform occasionally. It’s not recommended to leave things at the base, as it’s a pain to get back to the base from the summit, so most folks rack up at the car if they’re planning to top out. 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